Kompong Cham Cycling Guide: Bamboo Bridge, Koh Pen Island & Rural Temples

Nestled along the banks of the Mekong River in eastern Cambodia, the quiet town of Kompong Cham is a hidden paradise for slow travelers. While the city center itself is small and laid-back, the surrounding countryside is dotted with fascinating cultural spots, vibrant agricultural islands, and ancient ruins. After spending three nights in town, we discovered that the absolute best way to experience this region is on two wheels.

In this comprehensive Kompong Cham cycling guide, we share our hand-crafted 2-day itinerary. From navigating the tricky post-pandemic bicycle rental situation and crossing the famous seasonal Bamboo Bridge to Koh Pen Island, to exploring the ancient ruins of Wat Nokor and embarking on a scenic 21 km riverside ride to the hilltop Hanchey Temple, here is everything you need to know for the ultimate self-guided cycling adventure.

🇯🇵 この記事を日本語で読む: カンボジア・コンポンチャム自転車旅：バンブーブリッジとメコン川の島・寺院を巡る2日間

Kompong Cham 2-Day Cycling Itinerary Summary

• Day 1 (Short Loop – Approx. 15 km): Cross the seasonal Bamboo Bridge (USD 1 round trip) to explore Koh Pen Island‘s stilt villages in the morning, followed by a 3 km ride west to the ancient-meets-modern ruins of Wat Nokor in the afternoon.
• Day 2 (Long Ride – Approx. 42 km round trip): Cycle straight north along the Mekong River to the 7th-century hilltop Hanchey Temple for panoramic river views.
• Bicycle Rental Warning: Standard rental shops in town have closed down due to Covid. You must arrange a “Mamachari” delivery via your hotel reception (USD 3 per day).
• Local Refreshments: Fresh Coconut on the island (3,000 Riel), Boiled Corn (1,000 Riel for two), Orange-infused Sugarcane Juice (2,000 Riel).

Crucial Tips for Renting a Bicycle in Kompong Cham (Post-Covid Update)

There do not appear to be any shops in Kompong Cham town that offer bike rental at the moment. We walked around the town centre but could not find any bike rental shops. Covid has destroyed many businesses here.

We asked at the hotel reception, and someone who runs a bike rental business on the outskirts of the city contacted us by phone. These are not mountain bikes, but Asian-style mamachari bicycles.

We booked the bikes to be brought to us at 8am the next morning. The rental cost was USD 3 per bike.

Day 1 Morning: Crossing the Bamboo Bridge to Koh Pen Island

After getting the bikes, we headed to the Bamboo Bridge that morning.

The Seasonal Bamboo Bridge: Past vs. Present

From the town centre of Kompong Cham, a short ride south along the Mekong River brings you to the Bamboo Bridge. As the name suggests, the bridge is made of bamboo and connects the Mekong River sandbank island Koh Pen with the city of Kompong Cham.

In the past, the bridge was used on a daily basis as an important transport link for citizens, and was rebuilt every year to keep it functioning as a bridge. However, since the construction of the concrete bridge, the Bamboo Bridge has mainly been used as a tourist attraction.

The Bamboo Bridge is also accessible by bicycle. The fee for using the bridge was USD 1 per person round trip. The ticket received at the entrance must be presented on return.

Once across the Bamboo Bridge, there are photo opportunities for travellers.

Island side across the Bamboo Bridge.
Some shops sold coffee and other soft drinks.

The Bamboo Bridge in Kompong Cham has now become a tourist attraction, but in 2017, when we last visited, it still functioned as a daily bridge for citizens.

This is a Youtube upload of what we filmed then. Motorbikes, as well as passenger cars and horse-drawn carriages, were using the bridge, and it is two lanes wide in some parts to allow four-wheeled vehicles to cross.

Comparing the two, you can see that the bridge has really been scaled down now.

Cycling Through the Stilt Villages and Fruit Orchards of Koh Pen

There are several villages on the and cycling is a fun way to get around.

There are many traditional stilt houses in the village and Buddhist temples are scattered around the island.

As well as banana trees, cyclists can enjoy the rural landscape of cornfields, rice fields and tobacco cultivation.

Mangoes were in season at this time and many mangoes were bearing fruit on the trees.

After leaving Kompong Cham town, we went around the island and crossed the Bamboo Bridge back to town. Most roads are paved or concrete and are easy to cycle on.

Day 1 Afternoon: Exploring the Ancient Ruins of Wat Nokor

In the afternoon of the first day, we went to Nakor Temple, which is a quick trip from the town. It is about 3 km from the waterfront in Kompong Cham town centre.

The area is a Buddhist temple complex, where old temple ruins and new temple architecture coexist.

You can reach it by going almost due west from Kompong Cham town centre. The road is nicely paved with no hills, but there is heavy traffic at certain times of the day.

Day 2: Scenic 21 km Mekong Riverside Ride to Hanchey Temple

On the second day of cycling, we visited Hanchey Temple, 21 km north of Kompong Cham. Admission is free.

Heading North Along the Mekong River Promenade

To reach Hanchey Temple, head straight north from Kompong Cham town along the Mekong River. As you continue north along the promenade, the scenery quickly changes to a more rural setting.

The road to Hanchey Temple is mostly flat and paved, except at the end where it climbs a hill.

We visited on 1 April, a Saturday, two weeks before the Khmer New Year that year. I don’t know if that had anything to do with it, but the traffic was unexpectedly heavy. We think it was people coming to the cemetery to pay respects to their family before the New Year.

Climbing Hanchey Temple: 7th-Century Stupas and Kitsch Statues

We pushed our bicycles up the steep hill, but there is also a stairway up the hill. It is situated on top of a small hill and has a wonderful view over the Mekong River.

Hanchey Temple was first built in the 7th century, originally as a Hindu temple, but is now a Buddhist temple.

The old stupa, with its prominent red bricks, survived the American bombing. The other buildings are relatively new and reconstructed.

This temple is quite kitsch, and I remember from previous visits that Cambodian temples often have statues of fruit, food and animals.

They are placed throughout the temple grounds.

On the way to the temple, we bought boiled corn and ate it for lunch after arriving at the temple.

The Ultimate Reward: Orange-Infused Sugarcane Juice

On the way home, we bought freshly squeezed sugar cane juice. It is orange-flavoured and squeezed with fresh oranges. Really delicious!

Evening Relaxation: Beer and Coconuts on the Mekong Waterfront

In the evening back in town, we relaxed on the promenade along the Mekong River. There are many little spots near the Bamboo Bridge that offer tables and chairs overlooking the bridge.

We soaked away the exhaustion of exercising with some fresh coconut water and a couple of beers!

Next Stop on Our Cambodian Overland Route: Heading to Kratie

After two full days of cycling, soaking in rural landscapes, and relaxing by the Mekong with a cold beer, we checked out of our hotel to head further north along the river to the dolphin-watching town of Kratie.

Discover how we skipped the standard tourist bus and caught a local shared taxi from the foot of the Kizuna Bridge: ➡ How to Travel from Kompong Cham to Kratie: Bus vs. Shared Taxi Guide

To view our full Cambodian overland itinerary, travel tips, and comprehensive regional guides, check out our hub: ➡ Return to Cambodia Travel Guide